"A few minutes ago every tree was excited, bowing to the roaring storm, waving, swirling, tossing their branches in glorious enthusiasm like worship. But though to the outer ear these trees are now silent, their songs never cease." ~ ~ ~ John Muir

Saturday, May 8, 2010

Where the Heck is Plovdiv?


That's where Lora is right now. (Forgive me, but I don't have free internet today so must hustle through this quickly.) Okay, I'll give you a clue. Plovdiv is a sweet little town in Bulgaria, second largest city in the country.


It's been beautifully maintained and restored and everywhere they dig a hole here they find layers upon layers of old cities. Just outside my hostel window is a hole and in it are, indeed, layer upon layer of stone streets and old walls. I spent the day wandering cobble-stoned streets, often lined with vendors and shops with little windows full of wonderful smelling breads laid out. I spent a wonderful hour in an old house that's been restored and turned into a museum and art gallery. That's one of my favorite things to do (wish you were here, Ms Enders).


The stately old Ottoman houses are lovely. Echoes of Safranbolu. The Ottoman empire lasted for more than 600 years, from 1299 to 1923. It's influence on the architecture throughout the region was strong. I suspect to see Ottoman style architecture throughout the Balkans, diminishing as I continue north.

Quoting from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ottoman_architecture:
"Ottoman architecture or Turkish architecture is the architecture of the Ottoman Empire which emerged in Bursa and Edirne in 15th and 16th centuries. The architecture of the empire developed from the earlier Seljuk architecture and was influenced by the Iranian, Byzantine architecture as well as Islamic Mamluk traditions after the conquest of Constantinople by the Ottomans. For almost 400 years Byzantine architectural artifacts such as the church of Hagia Sophia served as models for many of the Ottoman mosques. Overall, Ottoman architecture has been described as a synthesis of the architectural traditions of the Mediterranean and the Middle East.


"The Ottomans achieved the highest level architecture in their lands hence or since. They mastered the technique of building vast inner spaces confined by seemingly weightless yet massive domes, and achieving perfect harmony between inner and outer spaces, as well as articulated light and shadow. Islamic religious architecture which until then consisted of simple buildings with extensive decorations, was transformed by the Ottomans through a dynamic architectural vocabulary of vaults, domes, semi domes and columns. The mosque was transformed from being a cramped and dark chamber with arabesque-covered walls into a sanctuary of aesthetic and technical balance, refined elegance and a hint of heavenly transcendence."


Though there's much to see here I will only spend a day here. Plovdiv is a stop-over point on my way to Melnik. And where the heck is that, you might be asking (or not). Okay, I'll tell you that too. It's a wee town in Bulgaria with, of course, cobble-stone streets and monasteries and the added pleasure of some wonderful hikes in the area. It's in the mountains on the way to the Rila Monastery where I plan to spend a night or two. Though, it's still early May and I read that those mountains are high so I may have to resign myself to just looking at them through the bus window as I pass by.



I'm safe and sound, no worries, but must close. Chapter 2 tomorrow!

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