Faraway Places: Last few days in Turkey

Wednesday, May 5, 2010

Back street in Safranbolu

I'm feeling homesick today. I'm getting this feeling from time to time lately. This is a good thing. I don't miss my country or the mountains or my hometown today. (I missed the mountains immensely when I was in Armenia.) But I miss people. I miss my grandchildren, my children, my friends, my cat. I miss long talks with Michelle, when we discuss everything from the meaning of life to the meaning of life. I miss laughing until I cry with Sarina. I miss Catherine's great hugs and vibrant spirit beside me. I miss David's sweet smile and gentle humor. I miss my friends and our long talks and long walks.

I'm not ready to settle down yet though. That worries me a bit. But not too much. :o). I wonder sometimes if I'll ever overcome this restlessness. Even to stay 3 days in one place feels so long. What will it be like when I settle down permanently – whatever that means. I've traveled enough now that everything feels "normal" to me. I've seen enough different toilets, sleeping arrangements, foods, faces, landscapes, cities so that it all feels like home anymore. It's interesting. I feel more like a world citizen. That's a good feeling. It feels broader, more connected to all people. But in a way it's a sad feeling. I feel as if I have no small spot on the land that I'm really connected to. For all of my life I've felt so connected to Colorado and longed for a broader connection. Now that I have that broader connection . . . . where to anchor my little ship, this body of mine . . . .

Yoruk, small village near Safranbolu

Today will be a quiet day. Safranbolu is a small town, very easily explored in two days. I walked all around it twice yesterday, as well as taking a taxi ride to the neighboring village and walking around there. But there are houses and a museum to see here so my day will fill. There's a park at the top of a hill overlooking town. I'll take my lunch and hike up there then perhaps will walk farther afield.

Safranbolu

Thursday, May 6, 2010
I've stayed in Turkey a few days too long. Or not. Had I left after only one week I would have longed to come back. Now, I feel fulfilled. Turkey is very touristic. Safranbolu is a lovely little tourist town, similar to Estes Park in Colorado. There are a half-dozen old Ottoman houses that have been restored as museums (some decorated with furniture from the 1950s). There's a restaurant on every corner, though I never ate out as the home where I stayed provided wonderful home cooked meals. Oh, so wonderful!

The cobbled streets are lined with nic-nac-stuff shops. There are dozens of shops selling scarves, wooden toys, and the delicious trademark of Safranbolu, Turkish Delight. The salespeople are lack-luster today though. I walk past a shop and catch the seller's eye and she waves her hand wanly in the direction of her shop. Having been in the craft business myself I understand. When sales are dead it's hard to have enthusiasm for the random person strolling past.

Yoruk, May 5

A bus-load of tourists arrived yesterday. They filled the immediate space wherever they were walking but for the most part the streets remained delightfully quiet. I can imagine that it becomes quite bustling at times though. There's a large open square in the middle of town which would be ideal for open-air markets. Several restaurants have places for musicians. But today . . . we're taking the idea of sleepy little town to the next level.

Tomorrow I'll catch the big bus to Istanbul. I'm looking forward to the hustle and bustle of the city after all. Another traveler told me about the land walls that surrounds the city, the last remains of the city's Byzantine past. "Pierced by monumental gates and strengthened by towers, they encompass the city center in a great arc, stretching all the way from … the Sea of Marmara to … the Golden Horn. On the Golden Horn end, the most outstanding sight is the Church of St Saviour in Chora, with beautifully preserved mosaics and frescoes. On the Sea of Marmara, four miles away, is the Fortress of Seven Towers - Yedikule Hisari." Another writer notes that the Fortress is notorious as a place of torture and execution. "Out of favour diplomats and disliked family members of the Sultan were incarcerated here, often with grizzly results." (www.travbuddy.com/Fortress-of-Seven-Towers-v385546) Sounds like a fun place! I shall try to wend my way there by city bus, though I doubt I'll be able to explore the entire stretch.

Added Jan 17, 2011:
I visited the Fortress with a few other tourists. We also drew Ugur along with us for a day on the town. It was here that the men decided they should climb up on the Fortress wall and walk across. This however is looked down upon by the local police and a scolding ensued.